Different Ways Of Planning End Grain To Avoid Splitting The Stock
I utilize two different sorts of hand planes while I’m working with end grain.
- 7 for Stanley Bailey (No4 smoothing plane is fine too).
- Block plane with a low angle.
Shooting board and low angle block plane for freehand work with the Stanley Bailey No7 tool.
Both of these hand planes are distinct from one another. The planar iron is oriented in a different way, which is a significant distinction.
Bevel up or bevel down plane iron?
- Most bench planes, such as the Stanley Bailey No3 to No8, have a bevel down plane iron with chip breaker.
- Low angle planes have bevel-up plane irons, which are placed without a chip breaker.
What plane to choose for planning end grain
The number 4 smoothing plane has a bevel down, which is in direct contrast to the low angle block plane’s bevel up. Early versions of the classic smoothing plane can be found in the form of the wooden coffin. Wooden hand planes used to be the only option for making or purchasing hand aircraft, but they are still available today. Fruitwood or Beech is commonly used in the construction of wooden hand aircraft, which occasionally include a metal fore sole.
When using a common Stanley Bailey number 4 smoothing plane, the iron’s cutting angle is always 45 degrees. Most typical bevel-down bench planes are affected by this. The angle of the plane iron is determined solely by the angle of the Frog that holds the plane iron in place.
Because the bevel is facing upwards, the low angle block plane differs from the norm. How do you figure out what angle to cut at? If you don’t know these two things, you won’t be able to get the best results from your plane. Using this formula: 12° for the flat bed angle and 25° for the bevel angle When these two angles are multiplied, the cutting angle is 37°..
As a result, the low angle block plane’s cutting angle is quite similar to that of the smoothing plane. My best guess is that the low angle plane’s changeable sole mouth is what makes them different. It’s another difference that the bevel up the shave can leave the blade unimpeded by the chip-breaker.
Depending on the type of wood you’re working with, you’ll have to decide which plane to employ. You could use either plane, but if you already own a smoothing plane, you might as well utilize that. Planning end grain necessitates a well calibrated smoothing plane with a razor-sharp edge.
End grain wood may be sanded without causing irritating splits by following my “How to Video.”
Some end grain will need to be honed.
Use a sacrificial piece of wood.
The woodworker’s vice is used for this procedure. Instead of your workpiece, the sacrificial piece of wood is the wood that splits. Make sure the sacrificial piece of wood is positioned behind your workpiece in the vice. This piece of wood should be flush with the workpiece at all times. Make a few passes across the wood with a hand plane at a little slant. Assuring that both the workpiece and the sacrificial piece of wood are passed over at all times. Only the sacrificial piece of wood should suffer from splintering.
Your hand plane needs to be incredibly sharp. The end grain shavings won’t be clean if you use a blunt plane.
End grain 90° and 45° shooting board.
Another great feature of the shooting board is that it assists in guiding the plane over a piece of wood. Things like these can’t be purchased from a store, but you can make them at home. I have my shooting board set up so that it can also shoot end grain at a 45-degree angle.
However good your equipment, mastering the art of sharpening will always be a priority (excuse the pun). I’m sorry, but if you can’t get a sharp edge, you’ve already failed. As long as you put in the time and effort, you’ll be able to enjoy the fruits of your labors.